Ceremony and contemplation
Japanese chanoyu, the way of tea, centres on matcha whisked in a bowl. Its aesthetic was shaped by the sixteenth-century master Sen no Rikyū, who emphasised simplicity, rustic beauty and the idea of each meeting as unrepeatable. Formal ceremonies follow precise choreography, but you need not memorise it as a guest: your host will guide you. Bowing slightly, turning the bowl so you do not drink from its "front", and expressing appreciation for the utensils are customs of the tea room, not daily Japanese life.
Korean darye, literally "tea etiquette", is quieter and often linked to Buddhist temple practice and the scholar Cho-ui, who wrote about tea in the nineteenth century. Green tea is brewed in a small pot, poured into a cooling bowl (sukwu) to lower the temperature, then served in small cups. Temple stays in Korea sometimes include a darye session where the emphasis is calm attention rather than performance.
Tea transformed: milk, spice and the double kettle
IndiaMasala chai
- Simmer water with crushed ginger, cardamom and other spices.
- Add strong CTC Assam tea and boil briefly.
- Pour in milk and sugar; bring back to a rolling rise.
- Strain into cups — or, at a station stall, a clay kulhad.
TürkiyeÇay from a çaydanlık
- Boil water in the lower kettle.
- Steep Rize black tea in the upper pot over the steam.
- Pour concentrate into a tulip glass, then dilute with hot water.
- Choose your strength: dark (koyu) or light (açık).
In Hong Kong, "silk-stocking" milk tea — named for the fine cloth filter whose stain resembles hosiery — blends several black teas, pulls them repeatedly through the filter and finishes them with evaporated milk. It is a legacy of British colonial tea culture reimagined in the city's cha chaan teng diners. In Malaysia and Singapore, teh tarik is "pulled" between two vessels to create a frothy top.
These drinks remind us that tradition is living. A chai-wallah at a railway platform and a tea master in Uji are both experts working with the same plant.
Next: tasting vocabularyFind your tea trail